That was the final instruction on the handout from the Hotel when we arrived about walking the streets of Hanoi. The other instructions were to be relaxed and self confident and keep up your speed – never slow down. The cars and bikes are a river they will flow around you. Bollocks! The cars and motorbikes are out to hunt you down, to spring upon you from behind beeping and pushing through and to definitely keep you anxious. Our first five minutes on the streets of the Old Quarter we had five near misses and an old lady falling down in front of us (she ran into Nigel’s foot and then looked like he’d tripped her up. It was a complete debacle).
The other instructions and advice they gave us was “how to get away from pushy vendors”. “How to bargain in the streets”, “How to get away from street risks i.e. do not walk alone at night, put your bags in front of you when walking, look out for pick pockets in the markets and be careful using cell phone on the street”. Last but not least “Be careful of the scam people on the street especially travel agents”. Within the first 15 minutes we had some nutbar trying to distract us and grab Nigel’s arm (we still don’t know why really). I was in there though with the best inside hooking block I could muster and Nigel was about to smash him one. Haven’t had any other problems since but Jinkies we’ve been in some mad places before but the old quarter of Hanoi takes the cake.
First day was spent completely in the Old Quarter and we ended the afternoon doing the Hanoi Street Food Tour. It was really great and an awesome way to learn about the foods and what’s good to eat and what to avoid. We had eight different stops along the way and each one was completely different. The guide knew her stuff and with only eight of us on the trip we got to learn heaps. Finished up in Beer Street (I’ll give you 20 guesses as to why it’s called Beer Street). They have white lines on each side of the street and the café tables and chairs have to stay behind them. When the police drive down the street they hoof the tourists off the tables and get them to stand with their drinks and meal while they fold the tables away really quickly. After the police have gone to the end of the street, you can sit back down again. We chose a table behind the white line.
Next we walked from the Old Quarter through the newer parts of Hanoi and through to Ho Chi Mihn’s mausoleum and palace. Fifteen kilometres later we were back at the hotel having been through the botanic gardens, down to the red river and past umpteen cute French inspired buildings. The more we walked the more we appreciated how quaint this city is. Busy, frantic, dirty, smoggy, stinky and really quaint. The street sellers, hawkers and hagglers collide with generations of families squatting on the sides of the street washing dishes and fish heads and spitting out pumpkin seed shells. The streets all sell the same thing in the same area (We found this in Taiwan too). If you want to buy sellotape you go to one part of one street where that is all they sell. If you want a bra then go to bra street. You’re buggered if you need sellotape on steering wheel cover street though.
Today we realised that we are at the start of the biggest long weekend they have in Vietnam all year. It starts today (Friday) and ends next Wednesday. Monday is Independence Day (where they celebrate their victorious defeat of the Americans in 1975) and then Tuesday is May Day (another holiday). We realised that it was a long holiday weekend when we tried to book any transport, trains, flights, accommodation etc. over the next four days. Not so good.
Long story short – we’re going to Chiang Mai in Thailand for a few days.
And that my friend is why we are winging it. Because you never know when you’re going to end up somewhere that you didn’t think you would, until you do. Yay, next adventure on its way and we will see you again soon Vietnam!